Perfume Notes (October 2018)

Instead of doing a perfume roundup this month for the scents I’ve tested, I thought I’d do a little organization, instead. While I have been rather disappointed by a great number of the new releases I’ve tried, there are still plenty of scents I missed out on over the years, and for which I am now pining. Here’s my current wishlist, divvied up into several different categories.

Top 10: Definite Wishlist

fivezero's Top 10: Definite Wishlist perfumes

Annick Goutal — Rose Absolue

1984 | May rose, Turkish rose, Bulgarian rose, Damascus rose, Egyptian rose, Moroccan rose

I’m a rose lover, and this is one of the ultimates. Rose, rose, and even more rose.

Annick Goutal — Rose Pompon EDP

2018
Bulgarian rose, Taïf rose, peony, blackcurrant, raspberry, pink pepper, cedar, patchouli, white musk

Fruity rose with a some sophistication about it…and actually I just bought it. Hudson’s Bay is having a 10% off any $75+ beauty order this weekend, so I took advantage and it will be part of my upcoming birthday gift! (It’s quite different from the EDT, by the way. Test both. I didn’t like the EDT, as I found it a bit sharp and overly sweet.)

Annick Goutal — Vanille Exquise

2004 | Isabelle Doyen, Camille Goutal
vanilla sur-absolute from the Marquisas Islands, angelica, almond, benzoin, gaiac wood, white musk

A divinely dry, complicated vanilla.

Berdoues — Vânira Moorea

2016 | Alexandra Monet
Tahitian vanilla, orange, petitgrain

This is a unique vanilla in that it’s not all sweet and warm and fluffy. It’s a crisp, green vanilla. Weird vanilla, and I’m fascinated by it.

Britney Spears — Fantasy Intimate

2015
lychee, violet leaf, lemon, ozone, lily-of-the-valley, jasmine, brown sugar, genet, vanilla, heliotrope, benzoin, white musk

So easy to love, and in a pretty bottle, as well. The longevity on me is superior to that of most other Britney scents I’ve tried. I still love Private Show the best, but that doesn’t last well on my skin.

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fivezero's perfume tray, May 2018

Perfume Diary: May 2018

The idea of a perfume tray is one that I’ve partially subscribed to over the years, but recently, I haven’t really kept one. The fact remains that light (and heat) will ruin perfume, so I almost always prefer keeping perfumes in their original boxes. It makes it easier to organize them and move them, as well.

The main drawbacks of this, of course, are that I don’t get to enjoy the bottle designs and that it makes it annoying to actually use my perfume! Having to remove a perfume from its box and then replace it every time I want a spritz gets tiresome.

Elizabeth Taylor at her dressing table
Elizabeth Taylor at her dressing table (1948).
Image: elle.com

If you have a minimalist’s perfume wardrobe, then it’s a simple thing to display perfumes on your vanity, even by a window—you’ll likely go through the perfume fast enough that light and heat degradation aren’t a problem. My perfume collection is a larger one, so this doesn’t work well for me. I honestly do not recall the last time I finished a bottle of perfume! (Well, it was probably when I dropped a bottle of Clinique Happy about sixteen or seventeen years ago… Does it count if I gave bottles away?)

white perfume tray
Image: inrichting-huis.com

But I did use to keep a perfume tray out for the sake of convenience, and it displayed some of my most-worn scents. Sadly, after several years of sitting in indirect sunlight, the top notes have turned in my bottles of Burberry Brit EDT, Tracy by Ellen Tracy, Clinique Happy, and Calvin Klein Truth—at least the scents are fine once I get past the first couple of minutes of soured top notes. Britney Spears Fantasy fared well, but I think it’s because the bottle is semi-opaque. (You can tell I wasn’t keen on using more expensive or discontinued scents as guinea pigs!) Overall, my first attempt at a perfume tray didn’t work as well as I would have liked.Read More »

Chloé Nomade: The New Fragrance

Perfume Notes (March 2018)

It’s Friday the 13th!

My March perfume roundup took a while to compile; as you can see, I was a busy sniffer!

  1. Cacharel Anaïs Anaïs EDT
  2. Cacharel Scarlett
  3. Cacharel Yes I Am
  4. Cartier La Panthère
  5. Chanel Chance Eau Tendre
  6. Chanel Coco Mademoiselle Intense
  7. Chanel Cristalle EDP
  8. Chloé Fleur de Parfum Chloé
  9. Chloé Love Story EDP
  10. Chloé Nomade
  11. Clinique Aromatics Elixir
  12. Dior Addict EDP
  13. Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue Eau Intense
  14. Elie Saab Le Parfum in White
  15. Elizabeth Arden Untold Eau Fraîche
  16. Giorgio Armani Code Cashmere
  17. Givenchy Dahlia Divin EDP
  18. Givenchy Play for Her EDT
  19. Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Pera Granita
  20. Guerlain L’Instant EDP
  21. Guerlain La Petite Robe Noire Eau Fraîche
  22. Jennifer Lopez Blue Glow
  23. Lanvin Eclat d’Arpège
  24. Marc Jacobs Daisy Eau So Fresh
  25. Marc Jacobs Decadence EDP
  26. Mugler Angel Eau Sucrée (2018)
  27. Mugler Aura
  28. Oscar de la Renta Bella Blanca
  29. Ralph Lauren Romance Rosé
  30. Ralph Lauren Tender Romance
  31. Reem Acra Reem Acra
  32. Stella McCartney L.I.L.Y
  33. Yves Saint Laurent Mon Paris EDP

CACHAREL
Anaïs Anaïs EDT

Cacharel Anaïs Anaïs EDT 100 mL1978 | Roger Pellegrino, Robert Gonnon, Paul Leger, Raymond Chaillan
Top Notes: orange blossom, hyacinth
Heart Notes: rose, lily, jasmine
Base Notes: amber, sandalwood, incense

This one has been around for a long time, and while it’s never been one to which I paid much attention, I recently thought I’d resniff it. It has also recently been relaunched in EDP and EDT; I am pretty sure I tested the old version, since the bottle had the old style cap, which is as wide as the bottle itself.

Anaïs Anaïs is perfectly fine, and very 1980s-smelling. Strong, big florals, lots of powder. I don’t really have a reaction either way—I wouldn’t choose to wear it myself, but it smells fine.

I have seen this (and Cacharel Amor Amor) on the $19.99 rack at Shoppers Drug Mart, but maybe that’s just been to clear out the old bottles over the last year or two.


 

CACHAREL
Scarlett EDT

Cacharel Scarlett EDT 50 mL2009 | Honorine Blanc, Olivier Cresp, Alberto Morillas
Top Notes: citrus, tea, pear
Heart Notes: jasmine, orange blossom, honeysuckle
Base Notes: white musk, honey, sandalwood

Named for the character Scarlet O’Hara from Gone with the Wind, Scarlett is initially fairly pretty and clean-smelling, with bright citrus notes mingled with delicate white florals. It quickly turns into something musky and a little cloying—honey is often tricky for me this way.

I was quite surprised to see a tester for this older perfume at Shoppers Drug Mart recently! The adorable bottle doesn’t have anything written on it, and the box was nowhere to be found, so I had to squint at the tiny sticker on the bottom to figure out which fragrance it was.Read More »

Jean Paul Gaultier Classique Essence de Parfum advertisement

Perfume Notes (January 2018)

Hello all!

I know I have been AWOL for a while, now—among other things, I have been hard at work on the nail polish database—a brand spanking new version is coming, with the ability to track your own collection. (‘Cause I personally really, really need to do that!)

For now, I can only offer up this rather long list of perfume notes that I have compiled over the month of January. As you can see, I’ve been doing a lot of huffing. This comes just in time for Valentine’s Day, which is tomorrow, in case you need some gift ideas for a lovely lady in your life!

Happy Valentine’s Day to you all! 💝

The full list for January:

  1. adidas Born Original for Her
  2. Ariana Grande Ari
  3. Bvlgari Splendida Iris d’Or
  4. Calvin Klein Obsessed for Women
  5. Calvin Klein Reveal
  6. Chanel Allure (EDT)
  7. Chanel Allure (EDP)
  8. Chanel Coco Mademoiselle (EDP)
  9. Dior Miss Dior Absolutely Blooming
  10. Dior Hypnotic Poison
  11. Dior Pure Poison
  12. Escada Sorbetto Rosso
  13. Estée Lauder Modern Muse Le Rouge
  14. Etat Libre d’Orange Jasmin et Cigarette
  15. Etat Libre d’Orange Putain de Palaces
  16. Giorgio Armani Sí
  17. Givenchy Ange ou Démon
  18. Guerlain Mon Guerlain
  19. Jason Wu Jason Wu
  20. Jean Paul Gaultier Classique Essence de Parfum
  21. Lacoste Eau de Lacoste
  22. Lancôme La Nuit Trésor EDP
  23. Prada La Femme Intense
  24. Paco Rabanne Lady Million
  25. Paco Rabanne Olympéa
  26. Rihanna Rogue
  27. Salvatore Ferragamo Signorina Misteriosa
  28. Sofía Vergara Love (Fragrance Mist)
  29. Sofía Vergara Sofía (Fragrance Mist)
  30. Mugler Angel (EDP)
  31. Mugler Womanity
  32. Vera Wang Princess of Hearts
  33. Vera Wang Princess Noir
  34. Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium
  35. Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium Floral Shock
  36. Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium Nuit Blanche

I also got minor sniffs of these on cards, so I won’t talk about them today. Several are scents I had tried once and forgotten—I’ll have to revisit some of them on skin!

  1. Chanel Beige
  2. Chanel Chance
  3. Chanel Cristalle (EDT?)
  4. Chanel Gabrielle
  5. Dior J’Adore Eau Lumière (EDT)
  6. Mugler Aura

[Quick edit note: I had to fix quite a lot of things in this post; WordPress appeared to have not saved some of the bits I wrote, so certain entries were just incorrect. I think I’ve fixed everything, now! (Feb 13, 2018 at 11:55 PM)]

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National Fragrance Day: 20 Favorite Bottle Designs in My Perfume Collection

It’s National Fragrance Day! To celebrate, I’ve compiled a list of favorite perfume bottles in my collection. I’ve previously done a list of perfumes I want just for the bottles, so I thought this would be a fun one to do, as well.

I’m not wearing any of these scents today, though. Test driving ’90s classic Tommy Girl (which comes in a perfectly serviceable bottle, but it’s certainly not one of my favorites).

ANNICK GOUTAL Heure Exquise EDP
Image: annickgoutal.com

1

ANNICK GOUTAL — Heure Exquise & Les Nuits d’Hadrien

Many of Annick Goutal’s fragrances come in this signature bottle and tagged with a ribbon and a card. The style is old-fashioned and very beautiful. The glass bottle’s ribbing is reminiscent of gathered tulle.


BADGLEY MISCHKA Badgley Mischka EDP (2006)

2

BADGLEY MISCHKA — Badgley Mischka (2006)

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Haulage! Perfume & the Dangers of the FragranceX Waitlist

I’m on the waitlist for many items at FragranceX, my favorite online perfume discounter (no affiliation), but I’ve never actually bought anything they’ve notified me about being back in stock. Until just now.

I currently have a tester bottle (capless and boxless) of Guerlain Mitsouko eau de toilette, and have wanted to pick up a proper bottle of the eau de parfum, too.

Well, it just came back in stock at FragranceX, and there was just one bottle. 75mL was a bit more than I wanted (50 would have done me just fine), but the price was pretty darn good, so I bit. I get a 10% loyalty discount and free duty-free shipping, as well. I mean, it’s only my second-favorite perfume of all time, and it’s perfect for the upcoming fall. Plus, I’m getting tired of smelling baby poo and spit-up!

Guerlain says:

Fruity Chypre.
Mysterious, balanced, velvety.

A masterpiece of balance and originality, Mitsouko marries a fruity note of peach with jasmine flowers and May rose. The mysterious dry-down of the fragrance blends spicy notes with those of underbrush and vetiver.

Mitsouko initiates the use of the peach note in perfumery. Illustrating the innovative side of its creators, Mitsouko is the first fruity chypre fragrance in the perfume world, following other chypre fragrances introduced by Guerlain.

Guerlain Mitsouko edp. It’s miiiiine!
Image: guerlain.com

I’ve accumulated too many new perfumes recently. Time to put an end to it (and go back to buying nail polish! Hahaha…) Here’s my recent damage:Read More »

Perfume Notes on Labour Day

I got bitten by the perfume bug again and wanted to hit up Shoppers Drug Mart for some sniffing. For those who don’t know, Shoppers is a Canadian drugstore chain with a fantastic selection of higher-end beauty products sold at locations with a BeautyBoutique. Unfortunately, I went on Labour Day yesterday, and I was greeted by a cordoned-off prestige fragrance section!

Shoppers Drug Mart, Ontario Retail Business Holidays Act, Labour Day

I asked a sales associate about it, and it turns out that Ontario has a Retail Business Holidays Act which states that only pharmacies under a certain square footage may open on holidays like Labour Day. So, this Shoppers Drug Mart location, being over the allotted size, cordoned off certain areas to circumvent the by-law. I noticed that other sections blocked off were the prestige skincare section (Vichy, Nuxe, La Roche-Posay, etc.) and, bizarrely, the shampoo aisle. The SA said she’d be happy to help me out if I wanted to try any of the fragrance testers, but I didn’t want to bother her since my plan was to try out quite a lot of perfumes.

The fragrances on my shortlist were:

  1. Balenciaga – Florabotanica & Rosabotanica (re-test)
  2. Burberry – Body
  3. Burberry – My Burberry Black
  4. Givenchy – Hot Couture (EDP & EDT, re-test)
  5. Gucci – Rush (for some reason, I’ve never tested this)
  6. Jean-Paul Gaultier – Classique & Classique X (re-test)
  7. Jean-Paul Gaultier – Ma Dame
  8. Lolita Lempicka – Elle L’aime (re-test)
  9. Lolita Lempicka – Sweet
  10. Marc Jacobs – Divine Decadence
  11. Miu Miu
  12. Oscar de la Renta – Live in Love
  13. Paco Rabanne – Olympéa
  14. Rihanna – Nude & Rogue (re-test)
  15. Salvatore Ferragamo – Signorina (EDP & EDT)

I wasn’t sure whether all of these were available at one location—but now, with most of the “prestige fragrances” blocked off, I’d probably only get to try some of the less expensive items on my list.

In the end, here’s what I got to test:Read More »